Published by Alfred A. Knopf, 2016. Hardcover, 352 pgs
Goodreads Description
I have so many adjectives for this story. It's hypnotic, sometimes pretentious, occasionally vulgar, honest, insightful, surprising, poetic, and memorable. I don't think this is for everyone, but I found it an addictive and quick read. I have limited food service experience, despite holding a Hospitality and Tourism Management degree. I worked at Cracker Barrel for a hideous summer, and a dining hall at Virginia Tech. Upon graduating, I decided the late night lifestyle wasn't for me. Regardless, I will always be interested in those who work the grueling service industry hours.
I'm quite in love with this cover and premise. Combine that with the
praise of one of my favorite YouTubers (who works in the restaurant
industry), and I had to get on the library hold list. If you're
interested, you can check out Erika's awesome video review here. Highly recommend!
"They were dining, shopping, consuming, unwinding, expanding while we were working, diminishing, being absorbed into their scenery. That is why we- The Industry People- got so greedy when the Nine-To-Fivers went to bed." Danler's depiction of the staff after closing was unsurprising and raw, filled with drug/alcohol abuse and sexual entanglements. From my short summer as a waitress, I heard many rumors of forbidden hookups among management/staff, even if half was untrue...still a pretty high number probably occurred!
The writing felt disjointed at times, like a bizarre stream of consciousness. I'm sure this style was intentional in showing the fast-paced nature of an upscale New York City Restaurant, but occasionally I felt held at a distance.
The fine dining aspect was fascinating. As someone who doesn't live in a big city or spend several hundred dollars on a meal, I found the dining presentation, wine knowledge requirements, back of house environment (always frenzied and brutal, even in the most basic kitchen) and staff hierarchy to be the strongest parts of the story. The actual interaction with customers is given minimal focus, with just a few examples of specific people. That worked well in focusing the story on the life of the workers.
"Service is a structure that controls chaos. But the guests, the servers, have desires as well. Unfortunately we want to disrupt that order. We produce chaos, through our randomness, through our unpredictability....We are humans, aren't we? You are, I am. But we are also the restaurant. So we are in constant correction. We are always straining to retain control."
I have the utmost respect for people that can handle this lifestyle and thrive. It is all-consuming, and the personal sacrifices of time (and often health) are required. You must love the art of service and creating masterpieces with food to make it a long-term career. This book was unique from all other food memoirs or fiction I've read. I recommend giving it a try.
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